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And so it begins. She tells me about the guidebook and the Bayswater chapter in particular. She waxes lyrical about the inexplicable draw of middle-of-the-road cosmopolitanism and a few famous names who used to live here. Now she's onto contrasts: shabby flats with newspaper instead of net curtains opposite well-heeled mews streets. I steer the conversation back to what I'm interested in.

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